Telephone & Telegrams: Carlisle 1550.
Telephone & Telegrams: “Bank 5303 Liverpool”
Registered Office:
Martins Bank Chambers,
37 English Street,
Carlisle, Cumberland.
Field Manual No. 6: A Weekend on the Art Coast
Two small towns on one river mouth. A beach behind a dune, a ferry turned by hand, a century-old art school in the woods, and more galleries than traffic lights.
Itinerary
Day 1 — Across the River
Coffee on Butler Street → Chain Ferry across the Kalamazoo → Mount Baldhead stairs → back trail down to Oval Beach → sunset on the sand → dinner downtown.
Coffee on Butler Street → Chain Ferry across the Kalamazoo → Mount Baldhead stairs → back trail down to Oval Beach → sunset on the sand → dinner downtown.
Day 2 — Dunes & Galleries
Morning at Saugatuck Dunes State Park → afternoon Dune Ride → gallery crawl in Saugatuck, then over the bridge to Douglas → Star of Saugatuck sunset cruise.
Morning at Saugatuck Dunes State Park → afternoon Dune Ride → gallery crawl in Saugatuck, then over the bridge to Douglas → Star of Saugatuck sunset cruise.
Day 3 — Out of Town
North to Holland for Windmill Island and Big Red, or south to Fenn Valley and the orchards → if it's a summer Friday, Ox-Bow open studios.
North to Holland for Windmill Island and Big Red, or south to Fenn Valley and the orchards → if it's a summer Friday, Ox-Bow open studios.
Packing List
- Cash for the Chain Ferry
- Shoes you can climb 300 stairs in
- Michigan Recreation Passport (state park)
- A windbreaker for the evening lake breeze
- Sunscreen — the sand reflects
- Room in the car for pie and art
The Short List
- Oval Beach (Oval Beach Dr, west of the river) — The lot fills by late morning on summer weekends. Arrive early, or arrive at 7 pm for sunset when the day crowd leaves.
- Mount Baldhead (Across the river from downtown) — Climb up from the river, then walk down the back trail to the beach. Taking the stairs twice is optional and widely regretted.
- Saugatuck Chain Ferry (Water St, downtown Saugatuck) — Bring a few dollars in cash and a little extra for the operator. It pauses in high wind, fog or lightning, so do not build your day around the return trip.
- Saugatuck Dune Rides (Blue Star Hwy, north of town) — Sit in the back row for the bumps. Leave your hat in the car.
- Star of Saugatuck (716 Water St) — Book the sunset sailing. If the lake is rough the boat stays on the river, which is still pleasant and much less splashy.
- Ox-Bow School of Art (Rupprecht Way, north of the river) — In summer, Ox-Bow opens its studios to the public on Friday nights. Check the date before you go. It is the best free evening in the territory.
- Galleries & shops: Saugatuck and Douglas (Butler St (Saugatuck) & Center St (Douglas)) — Park once and walk. Weekend parking downtown is scarce; Douglas is easier, and the bridge walk between the two is short.
- Saugatuck Dunes State Park (138th Ave, north of town) — The beach is about two-thirds of a mile from the parking lot, over a dune. Pack light and bring water. Michigan Recreation Passport required.
- Fenn Valley Vineyards (122nd Ave, Fennville) — Pair it with an orchard stop on the way. In autumn, the roads around Fennville are all apples and pumpkin stands.
- Day trips: Holland & South Haven (Holland (~20 min N) · South Haven (~25 min S)) — Tulip Time weekends book up months ahead. Stay in Saugatuck and drive up in the morning before the coaches arrive.
Getting There
- GRR — Gerald R. Ford Intl., Grand Rapids: ~50 min via I-196
- ORD / MDW — Chicago O'Hare or Midway: ~2 hr 30 min around the lake via I-94 → I-196
- From Chicago / Naperville: ~2 hr 30 min via I-94 → I-196. Leave before Friday noon or you will meet everybody else.
- By train: Amtrak's Pere Marquette runs once a day each way between Chicago Union Station and Grand Rapids, stopping in Holland. From there it is about 20 minutes by car to Saugatuck.
- From Detroit: ~3 hr via I-96 → I-196
Reading for the Train
- The Complete Guide to Michigan Sand Dunes by Jim DuFresne
- The Death and Life of the Great Lakes by Dan Egan
- A 1000-Mile Walk on the Beach by Loreen Niewenhuis
- The Lake Michigan Mermaid by Linda Nemec Foster & Anne-Marie Oomen
- Paddle-to-the-Sea by Holling Clancy Holling
Where to Stay
- Wickwood Inn, Butler St, downtown Saugatuck ($$$)
- The Hotel Saugatuck, Lake St, Saugatuck ($$$)
- Lake Shore Resort, Lakeshore Dr, Douglas area ($$)
- The Dunes Resort, Blue Star Hwy, Douglas ($–$$)
Live Events
See what's on this week: robotsalesmen.ltd/saugatuck
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