Field Manual No. 5: Three Days Among the Red Rocks

Itinerary

Packing List

• Far more water than seems sensible
• Shoes with real grip for slickrock
• Sun hat & sunscreen — 4,350 ft burns faster
• Red Rock Pass or America the Beautiful pass
• A warm layer for desert evenings
• A polite but healthy scepticism

The Short List

1. Cathedral Rock (Back O' Beyond Rd, off SR-179) — The trailhead lot is tiny and fills by sunrise. Take the free Sedona Shuttle instead. If you're not comfortable on steep rock, stop at the saddle — the view is already excellent.
2. Bell Rock & Courthouse Butte (Village of Oak Creek, SR-179) — Best quick first-day walk. Climb only as far as you're happy coming back down — the descent is always steeper than the ascent.
3. Devil's Bridge (Off Dry Creek Rd, West Sedona) — There will be a queue to stand on the arch for a photo. On weekends it can be an hour. Go at sunrise or take the free shuttle on a weekday.
4. Chapel of the Holy Cross (Chapel Rd, off SR-179) — Parking at the top is very limited and the road backs up. Arrive at opening, keep voices down inside, and look out the big window at the back.
5. Airport Mesa & The Vortex Question (Airport Rd, West Sedona) — The free pullout below the overlook is small and full an hour before sunset. The paid lot at the top of Airport Road is easier. Bring a jacket — the energy may be disputed; the evening chill is not.
6. Oak Creek Canyon & Slide Rock (SR-89A, north of Uptown) — As of May 2026, when Slide Rock's lot is full it simply closes — no more queuing on the highway — sometimes for hours. Arrive at opening. Wear old shorts: the rock is slippery and abrasive.
7. Tlaquepaque & Uptown (SR-179 at Oak Creek / Uptown Sedona) — Park once and walk between them across the creek bridge. Most of the jeep tours leave from Uptown.
8. Stargazing (West Sedona & surrounding forest) — Check the moon phase before booking. A full moon is lovely, but it erases most of the stars.
9. Day trip: Jerome (Cleopatra Hill, ~45 min southwest) — The streets are steep and switchbacked. Park once, walk everywhere, and stop at Jerome State Historic Park for the mining story.
10. Verde Canyon Railroad (Clarkdale, ~40 min southwest) — Coach class is fine. The open-air cars are the reason to go. Pair it with Jerome — it's ten minutes uphill.

Getting There

• PHX — Phoenix Sky Harbor International: ~2 hr via I-17 → SR-179
• FLG — Flagstaff Pulliam Airport: ~45 min via SR-89A through Oak Creek Canyon
• From Phoenix: I-17 north, exit 298 onto SR-179 past Bell Rock. About 2 hours, more on Friday afternoons.
• From Flagstaff: SR-89A down the Oak Creek Canyon switchbacks, about 45 minutes. Slow, steep and beautiful.
• From the Grand Canyon: About 2 hr 15 min to the South Rim via Flagstaff. A popular pairing.
• Getting around: The free Sedona Shuttle runs from park-and-ride lots to Cathedral Rock, Soldier Pass, Little Horse, Dry Creek Vista and Mescal trailheads (usually Thursday–Sunday; daily in spring and other busy seasons). An on-demand 'Shuttle Connect' covers town for $2.

Reading for the Train

• Best Hikes Sedona by Bruce Grubbs
• Roadside Geology of Arizona by Stephen J. Reynolds & Halka Chronic
• Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey
• The Call of the Canyon by Zane Grey
• Animal Dreams by Barbara Kingsolver

Where to Stay

• Enchantment Resort, Boynton Canyon ($$$$)
• L'Auberge de Sedona, Uptown, on Oak Creek ($$$$)
• Amara Resort & Spa, Uptown, near Oak Creek ($$$)
• Sky Rock Sedona, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, West Sedona, below Airport Mesa ($$)
• Briar Patch Inn on Oak Creek, Oak Creek Canyon ($$$)

Live Events

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